Lisbon has a light all its own: golden in the morning, pink in the evening, it slides over the azulejo façades and makes the Tagus sparkle. Built on seven hills, the Portuguese capital takes a little earning — your calves will remember — but every climb rewards you with a viewpoint, a creaking tram, a strain of fado escaping a tavern.

In two to three days, take your time, because Lisbon is best savoured slowly. Here is our itinerary, neighbourhood by neighbourhood, with an unmissable escape to Sintra. Find everything on our what to do in Lisbon page.

Day 1 — The soul of Lisbon: Alfama & tram 28

Start in the Alfama, the city's oldest district and the only survivor of the terrible 1755 earthquake. Its stepped lanes, washing at the windows and fado houses make up the most authentic Lisbon. Climb up to São Jorge Castle to take in the whole city.

To come down — or rather for the experience — hop on the legendary tram 28. This rickety yellow carriage winds through the historic districts in a joyful racket; it's one of the loveliest ways to discover the city, provided you board early to avoid the crowds.

Tours in Lisbon

Tuk-tuk tours, Alfama walks and fado experiences to book.

Day 2 — Belém, the Age of Discovery… and the pastéis

Head to Belém, the district from which the caravels set sail in the Age of Discovery. Admire the Belém Tower, a stone sentinel set on the Tagus, and the sumptuous Jerónimos Monastery, a masterpiece of Manueline style. Right next door, the famous Pastéis de Belém factory awaits: taste these little custard tarts still warm, dusted with cinnamon — an institution since 1837.

If you have a third day, don't miss Sintra: less than an hour from Lisbon, this fairy-tale village hides the garish Pena Palace and romantic gardens perched in the mist. A total change of scenery.

Belém & a Sintra day trip

Tickets for the Belém monuments and day trips to Sintra and Cascais.

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